At the Zócalo
Mexico City
Filled with obnoxiously strong coffee and a few bites of a hotel breakfast, we took an Uber to the Zócalo. I’ve seen the giant Mexican flag in pictures, but they don’t do it justice. It’s massive.
We walked around the square for a bit, taking in the sights. The weather was absolutely perfect. Blue skies and maybe 70°F. It’s incredible to think that before the Spanish conquest, those grounds were part of the ceremonial heart of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan.
We noticed that a stage was being constructed and sound systems were being wired up and tested. I looked it up, and it turns out Garbage is performing a free concert tonight. Garbage. Really? The Mexican people deserve better than that.
We had a look inside the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral, properly known as the Catedral Metropolitana de la Asunción de la Bienaventurada Virgen María a los cielos. A mouthful.
Of course, it was beautiful inside, but it really cemented a theory in my mind that had been floating around for a while. The Mexicans never truly abandoned the indigenous/pagan religions of their ancestors.
Mary is the goddess, or feminine aspect of divinity. Yeah, yeah, you can say they don’t worship her like that, but let’s be real. And polytheism just wears a saint mask now. All these statues of different saints, representing various virtues and possessing certain powers. It’s just syncretism! Rome allows it, so it’s suddenly Christian. It’s all very fascinating.
After getting my fill of starry-eyed parishioners and ornate religious iconography, we stepped back out into the square to find some (alleged) curanderos performing rituals for a few pesos. It’s called a limpia, a traditional spiritual and energetic cleansing ritual.
So, we all stood there with our eyes closed while they uttered incantations, blasted us with smoke, and slapped us with herbs. It was awesome. I think it got rid of whatever spiritual miasma clung to me from our time in the Cathedral.
From there, we went south, checking out shops and fighting the crowds. Tacos al pastor and a torta for lunch at Taquería Santa Rita. We continued on, checking out the little one-street Chinatown on our way to what was supposed to be a big local market. Turns out it was permanently closed. We rested our weary legs on a nearby bench and waited for an Uber.
Once back at the hotel, everyone collapsed for a while, closing their eyes or quietly staring at a phone. At one point, the wife and I let the boy rest and went for a walk around the area. The park across the street was so lively, with dance classes, musicians, and vendors. We grabbed some fresh juice from a nearby shop and just enjoyed the ambience.
I figured we would get dinner in Roma Norte. We took an Uber to Plaza Río de Janeiro and walked south along Calle Orizaba. It was dark and busy and not that much different from La Condesa. I kind of regret going out there; maybe it’s better during the day. We ended up eating an overpriced, mediocre meal before returning to the hotel.
Now we’re lounging, thoroughly exhausted. Tomorrow is Chapultepec and the National Museum of Anthropology.